Bar Gernika Keeps Faith

While Bar Gernika’s succession may have seemed like a slam-dunk, the challenge facing Jeff and wife Stephanie was whether or not to look at new ownership as an opportunity to rethink Bar Gernika, or maintain the status quo.  Continuity carried the day.

It’s said that the only constant is change, but Jeff and Stephanie May are having none of it.  Nor should they.  On January 1, 2008, they became the owners of a restaurant that is equal parts pub, cultural icon, and historical landmark: Bar Gernika.  As its owners, Jeff and Stephanie have become the keepers of a flame that was kindled back in 1991, when Bar Gernika’s previous owner, Dan Ansotegui, first opened the restaurant in what would eventually become Boise’s Basque Block.

Jeff and Stephanie are no strangers to the restaurant business.  Stephanie earned her stripes at Boise’s venerable Stagecoach Inn, while Jeff boasts a slightly more illicit beginning: he lied about his age when he was 14 to get a job washing dishes at the Brick Oven Bistro (then known as the Beanery).  As a high school student he went to work for Lucky 13 in Hyde Park, where he spent the next 10 years.

“I found restaurant work challenging – each day is different,” Jeff recalls.  “But what fascinated me the most was the process of creating new food combinations.”  Case in point: Jeff’s nickname in high school was Manfred, and to this day you’ll find “The Manfred” pizza on the menu at Lucky 13.  Now, that’s a legacy.

The origins of Bar Gernika go back far longer than its status as a landmark of Boise’s Basque community.  Dan Ansoteguis’ choice for a restaurant location originally began its life as a Chinese laundry in what was then Boise’s Chinatown.

When one of Dan Ansotegui’s staff left Bar Gernika to go to culinary school, Jeff came to work for him, starting as a prep cook and then advancing up the chain of command.  Along the way, he learned Basque recipes from Dan, who had learned them from his mom, who had learned them from hers…going back through generations of Ansoteguis.

The origins of Bar Gernika go back far longer than its status as a landmark of Boise’s Basque community.  Dan Ansoteguis’ choice for a restaurant location originally began its life as a Chinese laundry in what was then Boise’s Chinatown.  A fire later swept through the area, and the town’s Chinese population relocated to an area subsequently known as “Chinese Gardens” – Chinden.  (A note to our city historians: please feel free to elaborate on this recounting for the benefit of Behind the Menu followers).

The next wave of immigrants who came to the neighborhood were the Basque, and the former Chinese laundry became a bar (The Cub) in 1948, which it remained until Dan purchased the building in 1991.  A bit of spit polish and elbow grease and The Cub was transformed into Bar Gernika.

When Dan opened his Basque Market, Jeff was ready to assume more responsibility.  And when Dan decided to retire, Jeff approached him about buying the restaurant.  While Bar Gernika’s succession may have seemed like a slam-dunk, the challenge facing Jeff and wife Stephanie was whether or not to look at new ownership as an opportunity to rethink Bar Gernika, or maintain the status quo.  Continuity carried the day.  “We like this food, and we eat it all the time,” says Jeff.  “These were the recipes from Dan’s mom, and we wanted to keep them alive.  In the end, we took a few things off the menu and changed up some of the beers, but the reason we wanted to buy Bar Gernika to begin with was to make sure that it stayed the same.  If someone came back here after being away for 10 years, our goal was that they wouldn’t notice a difference from the last time they’d eaten there,” says Jeff.

It’s no surprise that Basque dishes define the Bar Gernika experience.  Aside from croquetas, Jeff suggests starting off with any of the pub’s tortillas.

So just what is it that keeps the Bar Gernika faithful coming back for more? Perhaps the best place to start is with those deep fried, doughy balls of goodness known as croquetas, which the Bar Gernika website modestly describes as “a wonderful combination of butter, onion, chicken, flour and milk…coated with bread crumbs and fried.”  Bar Gernika fans simply describe them as “addictive”.

Jeff May in his element

It’s no surprise that Basque dishes define the Bar Gernika experience.  Aside from croquetas, Jeff suggests starting off with any of the pub’s tortillas.  Not to be confused with the corn or flour flatbreads of Mexico, the Spanish version more closely resembles a frittata of eggs, potato, and onion, with variations on the theme that include chorizo, mushrooms, pimentos, and cheese.

“A classic Bar Gernika entrée is our Spicy Lamb Grinder,” says Jeff.  “It’s our lamb dip with grilled onions, peppers, mushrooms, jalapenos, and pepper jack cheese. Another popular sandwich is the solomo, which is pork tenderloin in a pepper sauce marinade with a little salt and garlic, fried up and served with pimentos on a French roll.  It’s very simple, very traditional.”  Bar Gernika’s menu of Basque fare also includes paella, lamb kabobs, and lamb stew.

A hint to the uninitiated: for your first Bar Gernika experience, Jeff suggests sitting down to a plate of croquetas, the Spicy Lamb Grinder, and a Red Seal beer.  Have a seat and the bar and talk with Dan or one of the Bar Gernika cooks about what they’re up to, or if the weather allows, sit outside and soak in the vibe of Idaho’s beloved ethnic community, and the little pub that has come to define its flavor.  Either way, you’re in for a big side of local history with your meal.